Loyalty Islands – Lifou
So, Monday we headed out of Moselle bound for Bay de Majic for the night and then the 20 hour trek to the Loyalties. Departed Majic at 2pm Tuesday, to time our departure through Havana Passage (which can be notorious for wind/wave/strong current action) and outside the lagoon and off to Lifou Island and Port We marina. The Loyalty’s are a group of 3 islands – Mare, Lifou and Ouvéa. Originally we thought we would do all three, but with not a lot of time and several other cruisers mentioning that Mare wasn’t high on their list, we decided to miss it and head to Lifou. The trip was not as planned. The fictionalists (weather forecasters) determined that we would have no wind and it would be a motoring trip. Not so, we only got variable 10 to 15 knots, but from varying directions, so had both sails up until night and then decided as the wind died to under 10 knots and fluctuating we would simply leave the headsail out and run with one motor. Twenty hours later we were tying up to the dock at Port We. We picked this as our first stop as it is the main hub and the only place to hire a car to see the island. Interesting port, small with a tight entry which seems to be common practise with marinas outside of Port Moselle and Port De Sud.
Light at Bonne Anse
Lovely day to sneak in some reading.
Another tight one - get in and immediately turn to starboard!
After arriving early afternoon we decided to stretch the legs and check out the town of We. Interesting place with a mix of new/nice and old/worn out buildings along with a few traditional huts. We were a bit taken by the rubbish around the roadsides where it appeared that once you have finished with the wrapper, can, wine bottle, etc simply toss it into the grass. Never mind, we still liked We. Unfortunately we were unable to hire a car due to it being wedding season and all 8 car rental places were booked out so that made a drive around the island out of order for Friday, so we made the decision to head off the following morning and make tracks for Druelue – but not until a nice dinner at the local Thai restaurant that night, behind the marina.
Nems (spring rolls) and beers. Yum 😋
Looked dodgy but was terrific. Ordered the two things we could understand - nems and massaman curry.
The eight hour motor/sail was uneventful apart for a pod of about eight dolphins who decided to swim up, say hello and play under the trampoline. Dolphins are always pleasing to see and their antics good for the old photo or two. Trolling the lure (and changing it over to another type and colour) proved unsuccessful and probably a god send after seeing the giant grouper pulled off a fishing boat at We. After seeing the grouper we now know why the fishing boat we saw when we were coming up to We didn’t move, so we had to cruise around them. It also explains why they waved happily as we passed.
Dreuleu was a delightful little anchorage, sandy bottom and good holding. We anchored late afternoon and decided that we would go ashore the following day to find the village Chief and perform cotume which is a local tradition where fabric and some money is presented to the Chief in return for his permission to anchor, fish and walk through the village. That night our peaceful slumber was awoken when the local hoons returning from a late night fishing venture decided to circle Priscalina and shine their torch lights over the boat. Hoons is probably a bit harsh, they did two laps and off to the boat ramp laughing. No harm done.
Gunna need a bigger post hole digger
Now used for ceremonies
Asking the question “big chief and all his family”? In hand signals....
Early the next morning, Papiga arrived after an overnight from Bay de Prony. After a welcoming coffee (real coffee – Steve was impressed) on board their catamaran we ventured over to find the Chief, easier said than done. He was nowhere to be found and after asking several of the locals in our finest French (complete with hand gestures) we found that he was pronounced Chef. Anyway we found him after seeing gathering of locals with young girl (Felicity) speaking enough English to make sense of our garbled vocabulary. We handed over the fabric, a 1000 francs and a Priscalina hat which seemed like a new thing for him, never the less he took the offering handed the fabric and francs to an offsider put on the cap and wandered off. With that we had his blessing. Hopefully the hoons will know not too mess with us, we know the Chef. The village was quaint, tidier than Port We and good for many photos. Another night then over to Ouvea which we had heard so much about.
